Comparative Design, Development, and Multifaceted Evaluation of Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide Cosmetic Serum Formulations Using a Quality-by-Design Approach
Authors:
Saylee S. Wanere¹, Sachinkumar N. Jadhao²⁺, K. R. Biyani¹
Affiliations:
¹ Department of Pharmacology, Anuradha College of Pharmacy, Chikhli, Maharashtra 443201, India.
² Independent Research Consultant, Amravati, Maharashtra 444602, India.
⁺ Corresponding Author: Sachinkumar N. Jadhao, PhD
Email: s.jadhao.research@gmail.com
ORCID: 0000-0002-8354-7291
Journal: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Submitted: February 9, 2026
ABSTRACT
Background: Hyaluronic acid (HA) and niacinamide are validated cosmetic actives with distinct mechanisms, yet comprehensive comparisons of their optimized serum formulations are limited.
Aims: To design, develop, and comparatively evaluate two serum formulations containing 1% HA (HA-S) and 5% niacinamide (N-S) using Quality-by-Design (QbD) principles.
Methods: Pre-formulation screening used a 3×4 factorial design. Optimized formulations underwent physicochemical analysis, in vitro porcine skin permeation (Franz cells), hydration assessment via Corneometer® (n=12 human volunteers), sensory evaluation (n=20 trained panelists), accelerated stability (40°C/75% RH, 6 months), and Preservative Efficacy Testing (USP <51>).
Results: Formulations showed target pH (5.8-6.0) but differed significantly in viscosity (HA-S: 200±15 cP; N-S: 75±10 cP; p<0.01) and spreadability (HA-S: 12±2 g/cm/s; N-S: 18±2 g/cm/s; p<0.05). Niacinamide demonstrated measurable permeation (18±3 μg/cm² at 6h), while HA acted via surface deposition (42±5 μg/cm²). HA-S provided superior 24-hour hydration (+28±4% vs N-S +22±3%; p<0.05). Both scored high on sensory acceptability (>7/9). Accelerated stability showed >95% active retention and compliant PET.
Conclusion: QbD enabled development of two distinct, high-performance serums: HA-S excels in sustained hydration through surface film formation, while N-S offers better permeation and sensory characteristics. Both demonstrate commercial viability with validated stability.
Keywords: Cosmetic serum, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, Quality-by-Design, Franz diffusion, Corneometer, sensory evaluation, preservative efficacy
